Grand Canyon National Park – first impressions
We finally
arrived at GCNP at around 5:30 PM on Sunday, June 4. The day’s drive was broken
up by two main stops. The first was at the Petrified Forest National Park.
After checking in at the Visitor Center, we drove the main road through the
park for about 19 miles, stopping at overlooks to view the Painted Desert and
the Blue Mesa. At Blue Mesa, we walked a 1 mile loop trail down into the canyon
to view the various colored stripes through the formations, each layer
representing an era of time. Scattered throughout the walk were segments of
petrified trees; downed tree trunks turned to stone by the immense pressures
exerted on them over the ages. It was quite hot along the trail, but we
completed it in less than an hour and resumed our drive.
Viewing
Petrified Forest we were impressed by the landscape of stark semi-arid desert
with the sculpted features exhibiting an endless array of shapes, sizes and
colors. This was, we believed, just an appetizer for what we’d find in Grand
Canyon National Park, just about 4 hours further west and north.
We needed to
restock grocery items so we found a Super Wal-Mart in a small town called
Winslow, Arizona. It immediately suggested the hit Eagles’ song “Take It Easy”:
“Well, I’m standing on a corner in Winslow Arizona, such a fine sight to see … “.
So we took it easy (it was hot), found the Wal-Mart, took some pictures in
front of the Winslow Ford dealership “It’s a girl, my Lord, in a flatbed Ford …”,
and posted it on Facebook. Such fun!!!
Shopping
done, lunch done, we hit the road again for the final stretch of the very long
drive from Fredericksburg to GCNP. We pulled into camp, registered, and set up
the RVs for a long stay. After dinner, we walked the campground to find the few
amenities, planned for the first full day at the Rim, and retired for the
night.
While it’s hot
during the day (80’s), as the sun sets, the air cools rapidly (very low
humidity is an oddity for us east-coasters) and we awaken to cool, comfortable
50’s in the morning. Even in the heat of the day, a shady spot offers relief
from the heat and usually a nice cool-feeling breeze.
We are
camped in the RV-Trailer Village; the only campground in the park with full
hook-ups. The sites are more like a commercial campground than a public park,
but nice enough. The pads and roads are paved and “yards” in between sites are
gravel and weeds – no grass.
GCNP runs
several shuttle busses that transport folks throughout the park. This is nice
as we don’t have a vehicle (GCNP does not have rental cars anywhere, even at
the local towns). On Monday, we boarded the Blue westbound bus and headed for
the South Rim Visitor’s Center. We viewed a short film about the canyon, got
our National Parks Passport book stamped as proof we were here, then made the
short walk to the Rim. The crowds were not bad; the views were spectacular.
I don’t
think the English language has a word that describes the awe and beauty of this
place. If Petrified Forest was the appetizer (Buffalo wings), the Grand Canyon
is expensive wine, shrimp cocktail, filet mignon and lobster, and white
chocolate raspberry cheesecake all at once. The perspective changes with every
step, the lighting is constantly changing with shadows from clouds and the
sunlight reflecting off the multi-hued buttes, temples and rock ledges. There
is little sound – even the din of the crowds is attenuated by the enormity and
vastness of the canyon.
On day 2
(Tuesday) we went to the Village where allegedly there was good WiFi. NOT!!!
But we did have a good strong 4G cell signal so we were able to take care of
some personal business like paying bills and checking our bank accounts. We got
in a few phone calls and text messages, then set out to walk the Rim Trail
through the village stopping to take in more canyon views while also diverting
to shops within the village. We had lunch at the Bright Angel Lodge, then rode
the bus back to camp.
We gathered
up our laundry from the past week, and walked .7 miles into Mather campground
which also had Campground services: showers and the laundry. It took 30 minutes
to wash, but over 2 hours to get everything dried. Many of the dryers were not
operating and some did not work correctly. Then we walked back to camp, tired
and ready to relax before dinner.
On
Wednesday, we continued our walk/ride along the Rim Trail, this time visiting
the Hermit’s Rest Trail at the West end of the park. This was served by the Red
bus. We walked about 2 of the 7.8 miles and rode the bus from overlook to
overlook for the rest. The trek ended at Hermit’s Rest where we had lunch. We
rode the bus back to camp.
Thursday and
Friday we continued to walk parts of the Rim Trail and even traversed a few
feet down the South Kaibab Trail. From the rim, the trails look rugged and
steep. 10 years ago, I think we would have hiked them; now, it’s only a dream.
Photos to
follow soon. We leave GCNP on Sunday to head north to Hurricane, UT and the big
five national parks there.
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